NICE
CITY GUIDE
THE CAPITAL OF THE CÔTE D’AZUR
As a well known and established vacation destination since the 18th century, Nice knows how to show its visitors a good time. A favorite of Queen Victoria, Nice is often considered to be the original resort town – a city of rococo façades, rooftop bars, and offbeat boutiques, all framed by beautiful museums and the iconic Promenade des Anglais. It also happens to be the hometown of Agnès and much of Jean-Christophe’s family. Together, they put together this quick guide with some of their favorite places they recommend you check out during your time in the city.
WHERE TO DRINK
CAFÉ DES CHINEURS
Strategically located between Place Garibaldi and Place du Pin, Café des Chineurs is a classic spot to go for an aperitif. While they do serve food, this is more of a place to go before going for dinner elsewhere. Grab a table outside, order a glass of rosé, and take in the sites and sounds of one of the more popular locals’ neighborhoods of Nice.
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RUHL PLAGE
While the beaches of Nice might not be the most comfortable to walk on, they have certainly found a way to make up for it. The sheer volume of private beach properties in Nice is incredible, and every local is going to have their favorite, but Ruhl Plage, which has been around since 1907, is definitely a good choice. Better food, better drinks, better service, (and with a connection to the family of the step-mother of the groom) the Ruhl Plage has what you’re looking for.
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BOCCA NISSA
Located at the entrance to the Cour Saleya and a stone's throw from the seafront, Bocca is refreshing addition to the neighborhood, with an ultra-promising equation: beautiful dishes, lush greenery, and a festive atmosphere. With its atypical decor, like a beautiful townhouse, Bocca plays with Mediterranean excess, starting with its incredible rooftop of 250 square meters, entirely planted. Its the perfect spot to go for a drink on a warm evening and take in the sounds of the old town.
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WAYNE’S BAR
What is there to say about Wayne’s… anyone who lives in or has visited Nice probably has a story involving this English-speaking bar in the old town. Expect your classic Anglo-Saxon style pub, complete with live music on many nights. Your swanky, French Riviera establishment, this is not – almost the complete opposite in fact, but that’s what gives it some of its charm. In her teens, Agnès would play non-french-speaking American tourist to get in, and Jean-Christophe would go to cheer on the US during the World Cup or Olympics. Its a place to drink and make friends, and maybe to escape the French for a little bit.
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WHERE TO EAT
LE PLONGEOIR
This might just be one of the most iconic locations for lunch - not just in Nice but in the world. Perched on the end of rock pillars emerged in the Mediterranean, Le Plongeoir has views that simply can't be beat. After some recent changes in the kitchen, the food is pretty phenomenal, too. Opt for some rosé and if they’re still in season, definitely get yourself an order of the fried zucchini flowers. Bring your swimsuit for an after-aperitivo plunge.
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CHEZ DAVIA
This likeable establishment, run by the same family since 1953, has been a favorite of Jean-Christophe ever since his uncle took him there a few years back. Every detail is thought through, and the ingredients are meticulously sourced. The restaurant, which features a vintage bistro décor, is one of the few worth eating indoors to appreciate.
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LA MERENDA
When he was training in Michelin-starred restaurants, chef Dominique Le Stanc dreamed of opening a small place where the art of cooking was more important than efficiently running a restaurant. La Merenda is that place—no phone, no credit cards, the only business being the food. The chef’s skills shine with dishes like fried zucchini blossoms, a zingy pistou-laden pasta, and, for dessert, melty sautéed figs. Guests, many of whom are locals, are seated elbow to elbow in the tiny dining room with a clear view of the gifted chef at work in the open kitchen.
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FENOCCHIO
A Niçoise institution. No trip to Nice is complete without at least one scoop of the hundred flavors of ice cream at Fenocchio. While Jean-Christophe goes the floral-route, opting for flavors such as poppy, jasmin, lavender, or rose, Agnès prefers dulce de leche, amarena, or honey. There are no wrong choices, but black olive is certainly a choice that neither of them would make. Fun fact, Agnès’ first job was here, in the summer of 2010, at a time when Jean-Christophe frequented with his brother on a daily basis. Were the seeds of this romance planted that summer over an ice cream serving? We’ll never know.
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CHEZ PIPO
Another Niçoise classic for nearly 100 years, Chez Pipo specializes in socca, a chickpea-flour flatbread that comes out of the restaurant’s wood-fired ovens. Their motto, “Aqui si mangia la socca,” says it all—socca is the only dish they serve, alongside a selection of Provençale spreads like tapenades made with anchovies, artichokes, olives, or sun-dried tomatoes. The line outside can get long, but because of the simple menu and well-trained staff, the service moves quickly. It’s a must.
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WHERE TO STAY
HÔTEL LE NEGRESCO
With over 110 years of history, Le Negresco has been writing the legend of Nice and the French Riviera. Staying at the Negresco is like jumping into a joyous mixture of eras and styles. Contemporary artists, masterpieces, monumental sculptures – the Negresco’s important private collection of artwork and period furniture is impressive, even for the Riviera. Even if you decide to stay elsewhere, the Negresco Bar, with its authentic 1913-walnut woodwork and its exceptional tapestry dating back to 1683, is definitely worth visiting for a drink. In the evening, it moves to the rhythm of jazz, pop and soul.
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HÔTEL AMOUR
This place is proof that the city is undergoing a revamp, as the hotel echoes the iconic past of the French Riviera, while at the same time bringing a real contemporary flair. Thought out as a Southern French villa rather than a classic hotel, the unique furniture was carefully sourced, as well as the mountain of books which are kept in the libraries in the bedrooms, where soft music plays in the background. The bathrooms are pink and fully equipped with Italian showers. Telephones and televisions? Forbidden. The place attracts young, stylish crowds and the hotel is also only a few streets away from a private beach populated by striped parasols and blue sun loungers. Between basking in the sun and bathing in the sea, visitors can also enjoy its restaurant which celebrates local cuisine.
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WHAT TO SEE
THE OLD TOWN
Known as Vieille Ville, the Old Town of Nice is a charming labyrinth of narrow cobblestone streets, colorful buildings, and bustling markets. It's a treasure trove of history and culture, featuring landmarks like the Cours Saleya market, the Nice Opera, and many of the recommendations on this guide. It’s a favorite for both Agnès and Jean-Christophe, and a part of the city that must be experienced while in town.
LA PROMENADE DES ANGLAIS
Built in the early 1800s before Nice was even a part of France, the Promenade des Anglais, which translates to “The Walkway of the English," gets its name from the English aristocracy, which had taken to wintering in Nice at the time. The Promenade extends from the airport in the west, to the Quai des États-Unis (the Quai of the United States) in the east. Many of the larger hotels in the city can be found facing the Mediterranean along this steet.
PLACE MASSÉNA &
AVE JEAN-MÉDECIN
The central square of Nice, Place Masséna is a lively gathering spot surrounded by vibrant red buildings and adorned with modern art installations. It's a hub of activity, hosting events, festivals, and offering a blend of historic and contemporary charm. You will inevitably come across it while walking through the city, and it leads to Nice's main shopping street. Avenue Jean Médecin is a bustling thoroughfare adorned with shops, boutiques, and cafes.
LE CHÂTEAU
A climb up to La Colline du Château (Castle Hill) is the perfect vacation workout. A seemingly endless amount of steps with one of the most gorgeous views in the world as your backdrop (there is an elevator for the less sport-inclined). Once you get to the top, panoramic views of the Baie des Anges, Old Town, the Promenade, and the city's varied and vibrant architecture abound. And while a few crumbling walls are all that remain of the namesake castle on the hill, there is a park that's perfect for a picnic after a full day of sightseeing. If you decide to go the picnic route there are no shortage of places to grab food, but a stop by L’Aperitiv near the port is Jean-Christophe’s go-to.
